April 19

April 19

We got up early and headed out to drive the Cade’s Cove loop road by 7:00 to try and see a some wildlife. We were hoping to see a black bear. That didn’t happen but we did see lots of deer and wild turkeys showing off their feathers.

Early in the morning in Cades Cove with the fog just lifting.

Deer in the field as the fog was lifting.

Back for breakfast and then back on the loop road once again to take in the history of this lovely little corner of the world. Back in 1820, the first families began moving in to farm and raise their families. One of the first families, the Olivers, built a lean-to and stayed on until 1826 when they could buy the land and build a log cabin. They raised 8 or 10 kids in the one room plus a loft cabin with only a fireplace for cooking. The last generation to live in this house raised 16 children!

The Oliver Home

 By 1835, 125 families were calling Cade’s Cove home. The church was the focal point for the community and Primitive Baptists and Methodists held church services once a month. We were lucky to find volunteers at the Oliver cabin and the Primitive Baptist Church. Both had done their research and were full of information that made the life in the early days of the cove come alive. The mother of the volunteer at church had been a young girl living in the valley in the early days and her family were Primitive Baptists. She had related many stories to her children that he in turn passed on to us. He had also done much research on the early church and it’s impact on the community on his own. He was very passionate about sharing his knowledge. We had a entry level introduction to the Primitive Baptist church and the break away of the Missionary Baptists. Lots of questions were asked at the end of his talk and he fielded them nicely. What a difference it makes to have someone eager to share their knowledge right their on the property.

Primitive Baptist Church

We went to other homes and the Methodist church but did not get the same feeling being their on our own and reading from a pamphlet. From stories that were related to us through the volunteers and in the museums, the folks living here were happy and hard working. They didn’t know any other life and as long as they worked hard they could feed and take care of their families, have a little social time here and there, enjoy some mountain music and attend church. They were poor for the most part and lived on the barter system but life was good. By 1860, many of the families had moved on. The land was worn out and no longer producing like it had and the west was opening up but by the 1880’s, life was bustling in the cove with new families. By 1930, many people in the area were dismayed at the rate that trees were being cut down by the lumber industry and were fearful that if something was done soon to protect the land, the beautiful Smokey Mountains would be decimated. The lumber industry owned 85% of the land by then. Money and awareness were raised and it became a National Park in 1934. Most of the families moved on with they money they were paid for their land. There were new jobs with tourism just getting going in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. A few stayed but could not leave their land to their families, hunt or graze live stock making it nearly impossible. One family, not wanting to think that their descendents would not be able to stay on the family land, ended up taking his case to the Supreme Court but lost. So the cycle goes on, the Cherokees were forced away from their hunting and ceremonial ground then the early settlers were forced off the land. The good that came out of it all is that this beautiful place is here for all of us to enjoy today, both humans and animals. The wildlife is continuing to make a come back. There are over 1,500 types of flowering plants here, more than in any other National Park. The history of the early settlers is being preserved. All in all it’s a wonderful place.

Grist Mill in Cades Cove

In the afternoon Chris and I took the 2.5 mile hike up to Laurel Falls. We haven’t been doing this kind of hiking and really felt it. We have been in flat areas doing more walking than hiking. It felt good to do a little up hill. Huge rhododendrons were everywhere along the trail with wild flowers and a canopy of tall trees with their new leaves. It must be incredibly gorgeous when the rhodies bloom in June. I saw a small grouping of wild flame azalea blossoms just off the trail.

Laurel Falls